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I'm funny that thank you thank you I
want to tell you about us Tale of Two
Cities actually one city Seoul the city
of Seoul is one of the most one of the
most vibrant urban spaces in the world
even if you can't put your finger
exactly on what it is that makes it work
even though all the streets the
buildings look so similar there's
something in this metropolis of 24
million people right here in the center
of Technology which pulses with the
power of what they call Gangnam style
although Seoul may not leap out at you
the moment you step out on the street
there's a power that grows from the
struggle the conflict between these two
cities and that is the Tale of Two
Cities Gangnam in the South that makes
up by the song Gangnam style as you may
know from psy that overpowering Drive of
modernity and then gang Mook
in the north the old cities the old
buildings the old streets Gangnam is for
us that brash metropolis to the south
the lumbering Han River defined by those
broad boulevards expensive shops those
modern and concrete steel environments
Mercedes Ferraris bumper-to-bumper
wall-to-wall soaring skyscrapers along
pre-planned grids make gangnam since the
1970s something where koreans have
striven to create a world of modernity
something that rolls together new york
los angeles into a hyper convenient
urban landscape now gangbuk is an urban
space of narrow alleys of small family
shops backstreet restaurants where one
finds infinite depth in humanity
here you find the urban farms and the
glorious mountains that soar up over
head it is a human space of small
factories where families make shoes or
shirts or tiles or pipes as they have
for generations now these two cities are
not just geographical they exist in the
same neighborhoods they compete as two
images two ideas two philosophies for a
community and it is the tension between
these two cities
the synergy between these two cities
that has powered Seoul and made it one
of the most creative spaces I've ever
seen although Seoul seems like a city
that suddenly invented itself about 500
years old it is one of the most ancient
continuous cities and just beneath the
surface one can see the ancient contours
of the city now how did it start
well the Kangnam konbu Two Cities goes
back to the very beginning when the
fearless general lee seung-jae started
to plan for the city he had two advisors
to help him back in the 14th century
now the first advisor was the learning
monk mu hawk who sought in his view for
Seoul one city a spiritual City one that
took advantage of the energy the Chi in
the air in the mountains in the rivers
the powers of Buddhism
Malak was not interested in any
north-south axis of the Confucians he
saw the in lungs on mountain as the
proper anchor for this city because it
was full of some sacred energy as we
know from all the Buddhist whatõs the
dotted surface today but east some gay
had another advisor for another city and
that was the haughty Confucian
bureaucrat Jang dojin
now he was a very different person than
mu hock he was sat on replacing Buddhism
in Korea with a strict and formal brand
of Confucianism he wanted a space
defined by clear
of ARDS north and south like the
glorious capital Chang and of the Tang
Dynasty there was nothing subtle about
his vision for Seoul and although he
grew he drew upon the powers of feng
shui he had a clear vision for a human
space with a royal palace at the top
anchored in the very impressive book
oxen mountain looking down the narrow
the broad boulevard towards all the
ministries below and there at the bottom
of it he had placed the Khumbu palace to
show the magnificence and the symbolic
power of the king however this was not
the end of the other city that mu hawk
had imagined rather in wang mountain
remained important subtle and then after
the ganga palace became the scene for
bloody battles after Isan gaze death his
grandson built another palace the tangle
fool palace which was more asymmetrical
more human and better integrated into
nature the old city was established now
outside of the palaces soul developed
into two separate cities as well the
first was the North Village this was
where near the palaces the old
high-ranking Gentry families the yangban
families lived and there they had their
reign but to the south of the famous
chunghae chandrapur which separated the
two villages was found the South Village
were the technical people the
translators the accountants the
so-called middle people lived and those
were the two original cities which
divided into which Seoul was divided
however these two cities were turned
upside down when the Japanese invaded
Korea
and turned it into a colony overthrowing
the last king gojong when the Japanese
came in they were determined to try and
completely recreate the urban space of
Seoul and they did this by inverting it
they took the southern city rebuilt it
and made it into a modern space full of
concrete buildings steel electric lights
trolleys and of course here the
Mitsubishi department store it was here
in this new modernity that young modern
boys modern girls would sip coffee
outdoors trying to find and what was the
Japanese called the hong-man see
something of substance and the old city
the city of the aristocracy well it was
allowed to fall into disrepair and the
Japanese refused to even allow electric
lights to be put up after the Korean War
the area of chunga John was again
transformed as refugees poured into
Seoul and built these flimsy houses
along the river the river itself became
full of feces and cooking oil and
garbage and was a symbol for all the
people of that generation of the
terrible poverty of Korea when at last
Korea started to pull itself together in
the 1960s the ambitious mayor Kim Hanul
decided that he would define this new
city of Seoul again a new city in what
he called a city defined by lines he
started tearing down everything he could
get his hands on and building concrete
buildings and freeways and restructuring
the city again in a totally different
fashion and he took the chung gates on
river and he solved this problem by
covering it up with concrete and making
it a sewer and building a freeway over
it now the new frontier was the Han
River further to the south and this big
River became the
for the two new cities now this whole
entire North became kombu and south of
the river was the south bank Gangnam it
was here that it was expanded with the
new apartment buildings here with the
old farms still in place this swampland
fields and orchards was recreated into a
modern city an imagined
perfect western world which remains to
this day at the same time the old gang
book in the north started to run down
but in the last decade or so it has been
rebuilt and reimagined the chunghae chun
river which had become a sewer has been
reopened and over the last ten years
even the native fish have come back and
are swimming there the north village has
become immensely popular and it's narrow
alleys are often preferred to the broad
boulevards of gangnam now let's take a
little closer look at gone book I
personally love the little factories in
the area around midstream and Tunga Khan
and originals and here you find families
building things selling little products
and most interesting of all is these
little stores where local artists come
to ask them to use their welding
equipment to build their works of art
and the back streets are hidden all
sorts of restaurants and then higher in
the mountains one finds the mural
villages places like Yvonne gamee
where the local community has worked
together of artists to make murals and
artworks that transform the city and
make it something human something
touching something eternal in daily life
and then places like Itaewon these are
the sticker environments all these
cryptic stickers which are put up by
young people in every corner of Itaewon
a place which was once full of American
GIs but now is full of Indian
Arabs Africans people from all over the
world
and finally Gangnam well Gangnam on the
other side is just big I mean take for
example the enormous coax Center with
its soaring ceilings its concrete and
glass and steel there's something in
coax and in this environment that one
finds in this in Gangnam which is almost
overwhelming for some people it has this
driving power of Korea's economic and
technological strengths and it draws
people up draws people in on the other
hand in time she'll there's the Lotte
world mall a massive building the
tallest in Seoul housing a fantastic
space in the department store for
bizarre art for enormous hanging
monitors and even a little traditional
village hidden within the department
store itself it is something truly
fantastic from a ultra-modern
consumer society which Gangnam has
become but even within Gangnam one sees
Gangu
for example just a little ways from OpCo
Jong in the middle of Gangnam you have
the goddess Akio this tree-lined
Boulevard with its small and large
boutiques the handbag museum and a whole
variety of tasteful cafes almost like a
European feel a bit of gang book hidden
there in the midst of everything else
and that is the tremendous
contradiction and paradox of these two
cities Gangnam and gang book they exist
within each other on the other side on
the north and Ganga book you have the
DDP this Culture Centre which I think
looks like a spaceship that landed from
outer space designed by Zaha Hadid the
famous Iranian architect in the heart of
the old retail for
clothing and the wholesalers there is in
the dongdaemoon area this spaceship that
landed suddenly the two cities seem to
be in a constant dialogue across the to
the great Han River there have a
attention and a competition and a
synergy across the chung gates on river
they have a similar relationship and
they evolve within the borders of each
and they drive the energy and the
creativity and the productivity of this
city it is in a way what has inspired me
the most about being in korea and what i
think is the essence of what drives us
forward if you want to understand
Gangnam style and psy and his power I
think you have to look at it in the
context of this larger dynamic a dynamic
it's like a madness which drives and
generates electricity and pushes Korea
ever forward that for me for us is the
Tale of Two Cities the tale of Seoul's
past and I think the tale of Seoul's
future thank you very much
you
you
you
